Friday, July 13, 2007
Slider...you stink
Monday, July 02, 2007
A Funeral, a wedding, and an exorcism
So two weekends ago I attended my first Samoan funeral. Im not sure exactly how well I carried out my part, but Im usually forgiven for most mistakes because if you didn’t notice…Im white. Anywho, the funeral was Sat, so I woke up at 345am (yes, 345am) to catch a bus with the whole village to Apia at 430am. Didn’t really understand why we were going to Apia, but I don’t ask those kinds of questions anymore. So we got to the funeral home (“fale oti” – means house dead, gotta love it) and we all stumbled out and sat in this little chapel where we sang one song and then got back on the bus and went back to the village. Apparently we did that because we were driving back with the hearse or something…again, not asking questions is usually best in these cases.
So we got back to old Tafatafa and went to the family’s house of the dead guy (the live sort of across the street from me) and had a little memorial service. Trouble with those things are you sit all around an open fale and you have to sit cross-legged because pointing your feet at people, especially in formal settings such as this one, is very rude. For those of you who don’t know, I have enough metal in my knees to set of airport alarms, so sitting cross-legged for 2 hours is not exactly my idea of fun. Anywho, after that fun event we walked down to our church (Mormon! Yeah!) and apparently there was some sort of service. I say apparently because I passed out cold…in the front row…I actually fell of the bench at one point to look up at a really pissed of Mormon Bishop. Whoops.
After the church thing, we walked back up to the house to put the casket in the ground. Around these parts they bury their family right out in front of their houses in big sealed cement boxes. My buddy Meghan, in Siumu, actually sleeps about 7 feet away from her dead relatives. Pretty neato. So did that, and then everyone was all excited to go back to the church and hang out some more to which I said, ya know, Ive been doing this for about 9 hours now and Im tired, so thanks, but no thanks…in so many words…I then passed out for 4 hours. And that, in a nutshell was my first funeral experience in Samoa
Now this last weekend I was privileged enough to go to my first Samoan wedding. The wedding was a guy from my village who was marrying a girl from Siumu (Meghan’s village, but she wasn’t there). It was a Mormon wedding so not a drop of alcohol in the place…yeah… I was lucky enough to be aloud to dance with the youth group from our church (see pics below). The actual wedding took place in the Mormon temple, so as I am not baptized Mormon, I was not allowed to attend that, but it appears that in Samoa people aren’t too excited about the actual wedding they are more excited about the food at the reception. So we all went straight to the reception at Vaitele and waited for the wedding party to arrive. Luckily I have become well versed in “Samoan time” so when they said the wedding party would arrive at 10am, I knew that really mean 12pm and I brought a book for entertainment. Once the wedding party arrived we took pictures and what not and then ate. It was a fairly nice event so in Samoa that means LOTS of food. And food that I could eat! Ive been going at it Vegetarian style in the village these days because I just cant look at the meat any more…for various reasons. After food we did our dances and then the typical mother/groom and daddy/bride dance. That was all neat and fun. Then to my great dismay they announced that they were throwing the bouquet. As I am already the talk of the village because I am 24 and should marry a samoan man and live here forever, I was pushed right up to the front. After being here for quite sometime I knew that if I had anything to do with that damn bouquet it would be the talk of the village for quite sometime. So once the group of girls was all assembled and the bride turned around to throw it, I made a mad dash back to my seat to avoid being any where near that thing. As I was almost back to my seat, I looked over my shoulder to make sure the bouquet was safely in an excited Samoan girls’ hands when what should I see but this flower asteroid coming right at me! Apparently all the other girls had rushed forward as the bride threw the bouquet with an arm like McGuire. So there I was, in the middle of the floor, all alone, with this…this…thing coming right at my face! I had to put my hands out to avoid being pelted with the damn thing and the next thing I know there I am standing in the middle of 150 wide-eyed Samoans holding the bouquet. Needless to say, I have heard of nothing else in my village than candidates for my husband. Sigh.
To top off the last week, we had a group of Pacific islanders come visit our school and assess our curriculum. I am slowly realizing that Samoans do not trust people from different islands (see blog entry about one of the teachers missing 3 weeks of school because a woman in Figi was putting a curse on her). So after this group left, all of our teachers and the school inspector reconvened to “debrief”. The school inspector looks at me very seriously and says, “Did you shake that man’s hand from New Guinea?” Having no clue where this was going I said, “Uh, I shook a lot of people’s hands. Why?” This answer was followed by much tongue clicking and shaking of heads (the international sign for disapproval). Oh lord, what now? School inspector looks at me very forlorn and says, “That man told me he put an evil spirit in you, to make you fall in love with him. You must be very careful tonight as he may have put spells on the pigs around your fale as well.” Oh…ok. So I got that going for me.
Mere coincidence I decided to hang out with one of my teacher’s later that day and we went to another village to pick up a witch doctor that had to come to our village anyway for someone’s legs…or something. Hung out with him for a bit and he didn’t seem too concerned for the “evil falling-in-love” spirit that apparently possessed me, so I think I will be ok.
Anywho, that’s about all I got here. My mom wanted me to let you all know that my out fit in the fiafia (pics, below where I am wearing a halter top) is not at all samoan dress, because I could never show my shoulders in any real samoan event. It was just a peace corps fiafia that is why I was allowed to dress that way. Mom didn’t want you all to get the idea that I was being to “skanky” (that was her word) over here. Love you mama.
Well hope all is well back home or wherever you are reading this from. Miss you all! Send granola bars and chocolate!
Saturday, June 30, 2007
Ive got a golden ticket!
Leading the sasa (the dance where I get to yell and scream and be silly while eveyone else sits on the ground and does certain dance moves that I tell them to) at the new groups Fiafia.
This is the part of the sasa where we "fai le lotu" or pretend to pray....that is neat
These are the year 8 boys behind my house one morning when the pipes burst. They came trudging down the the hill from the school (as they are sleeping there these days to catch up on school work for their national exams in Oct) as I was making my coffee. I was just deciding whether or not I wanted to go fix the pipes when they showed up not only to fix the pipes but to entertain me. Moega, in the back, was absolutely no help and merely stuck his tooth brush in the water each time the pipes would burst apart and continued brushing his teeth. Cute kid. Just another morning in Samoa...
Friday, June 08, 2007
Raindrops on roses and whiskers on....
I managed to coax my new bed mate out from under my bed only to fall over myself trying to catch him in a card board box (keep in mind I had been sound asleep not 30 seconds ago). Unfortunately he escaped through one of the many holes to the outside. I then proceeded to do what anyone in this kind of situation would do, I made a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. And then I set every mouse trap I could find all over the house so now I have to walk on tip toes not to set of an explosion of traps. Fun times had by all.
I also experienced another first last week when I was going for a jog in my village. I was going by a house and all their dogs started barking at me, which is par for the course. I had my ipod on (though only in one ear because you have to be able to hear all the people yelling “FA LOLA!” so you can say FA back or else things just get ugly) so I was kinda rocking out to my self trying to ignore the pack of ravenous dogs barking menacingly at my heels. Next thing I know this sucker sinks his teeth into my calf and doesn’t seem to be in any particular hurry to let go. Again, I calmly turned around and asked him to please let go because I needed that leg to continue my run. Fortunately he complied, but his friends were jealous and wanted to know what the white girl’s leg tasted like. It was at that moment that I became a dog hater. I actually tried to kick them and now I hope they all die.
Aside from dogs and rats, things just couldn’t be more peachy. I had a funny food experience this week. Everyday at lunch all the teachers eat in a little one room house off to the side of school. There is some sort of rotation of the families in the village who make us food and on Tues I think something got messed up (not like I understand what is going on) but all we had for lunch was some boiled taro, pesupo (this “meat” substance in a huge can with white chunks of fat in it and tons of this ewwy brownish snot looking grease. I don’t know how people eat it, Ive never touched it), and eleni (tinned sardines in tomato sauce…yeah…). Luckily my teachers knew I was “le masani” or not used to these kinds of food (besides taro of course) so I had an easy excuse to go make my own lunch. I have never done this before, but I was so hungry and decided to take the opportunity to show off the fact that I can actually feed myself. So I went down to my house and made a tuna sandwich, nothing fancy just tuna, bread, cheese, mustard and lettuce and then brought it back up to where the teachers were eating. They were kind of just like oh ok, no big deal. So I started eating and it was so delicious and I was getting all involved in my sandwich when I looked up and a teacher was just staring at me with this disgusted look on her face like “oh my god I can believe you are actually eating that.” When she saw me looking at her she changed it to a quick smile and I just had to inwardly crack up because for the past however many months I have been watching samoans with that exact same expression while they suck the brains out of fish heads or crunch open pig bones to get the marrow out and here I was with a tuna fish sandwich and you would have thought it was the most grotesque thing this poor woman had ever seen. It kind of put things into perspective for me. To them, I am the weird one. Who knew?
Friday, June 01, 2007
she wears a ten gallon hat

Never trust a texan...
Hana, louis and Sina. They are all children of a teacher at my school. I have been going over to their house for dinner a lot recently because they love to feed me. Their other brother is Iemi from the truck pic. They are a very funny family so it kinda makes me a feel a little more at home...
Yeah we could beat you up...and believe it or not I actually was cold here hence the long sleeve shirt courtesy of Mary's rugby team....
This is Ela, Naomi, Malaki and Issac, and this pic is VERY exciting because they are all doing sign language!!! Malaki is the little boy in year 1 who is partially deaf who I have been working one on one with him and his mom. Here, they are doing the sign for Father because Malaki's dad was sitting next to me (except Issac is doing the sign for the letter G, but close enough). You might also notice the large plate of panikeke on the bottom left part of the pic. I go to Ela's every sunday afternoon because she fries up Panikeke for the whole village and my plate is never empty at her house.
After prize giving, we got the trophy for our under 12 and under 14 boys winning the district. They were obviously pretty pumped. The best part is the hand coming out from the truck on the right side of the pic is the Mormon ministers hand, whose truck we all rode in to the prize giving.Saturday, May 26, 2007
Wow, its been awhile eh? Well, a lot has changed and a lot has stayed the same. I guess I should go back to the bike ride around
Well, we made it to Asau to find out there were no beach fales there and we would have to go another hour straight up a mountain to get to Falealupo beach fales (the same place we stayed for new years). So that sucked, but we made it and that night was the most terrific thunderstorm I have ever experienced in
That afternoon we headed down to Salailua where Derek (pcv) lives with a family. Some of the Peace Corps boys were also biking around the island and we had been seeing them all along the way, but they were a bit faster than us so we never biked with them for long. At any rate we all met up at Derek’s for a nice little dinner and whatnot. The next morning we just had to go about 3 hours to the wharf but unfortunately it started raining and just didn’t stop. Sally and I sucked it up and headed out. Unfortunately for those around me, when I am in situations such as these, i.e. exhausted, wet, and generally not very happy, I go into a sort of camp counselor mode where I try to see the good in everything and cheer up group moral by doing something really obnoxious like singing very loudly and saying cheeky things to every Samoan we passed. Luckily Sally put up with me for 2 months during training so this kind of overly obnoxious behavior didn’t faze her too much. So we made it to the wharf and finished all 120 some odd miles of that big old island. Unfortunately batteries here hold a charge for about 2 hours so I have no picture to validate my effort, but I swear it happened!
The second week of school break we were supposed to have our early service conference at Faofao beach fales with the group of volunteers I came here with (group 77) but wouldn’t you know it, the Samoan head of state, Malietoa, goes and dies (look up Julya Stey’s blog if you would like to see some really great pictures of the event. The parade with his body went right in front of the Peace Corps office). So, we only had one night at the beach fales and two days of language training because the state funeral and national holidays were Thursday and Friday. Pretty good to see all the group, except there were only 9 of us there and our original 16 is actually down to 11 come Monday L On that note, I have had to say goodbye to 7 people who have decided to go home for one reason or another in the last 3 weeks. It has been quite depressing to be honest as many of those people were good friends. We are all trying to look on the bright side of things, which is that a new group of volunteers is coming on June 6 and June 9 is the Fiafia that we put on for them. I don’t know if you any of you remember me talking about the Fiafia that I went to when I first came here, but it kind of blew my mind as it is the first impression of the volunteers. For this Fiafia I get to lead the Sasa which is a dance where everyone is sitting except for me. I get to stand and direct the group as to what dance to do, all while running around screaming and yelling and you know, doing what I do best, being in the spotlight. So Im looking forward to that.
School “started” this week. I am trying to get a reading program started this term as there are quite a few girls who are dying to read books, but just never really had the opportunity before. We will see how it goes. At any rate, been a rough couple weeks with people leaving and whatnot. But, Im hoping that things will start looking up soon, of course, packages full of chocolate and inter tubes never hurt…
Wednesday, May 02, 2007
somewhere over the rainbow
Hopefully going back to the village today. Supposed to start up homework hour for the high school kids this week, maybe can get it going tonight, even though it is the last week of the first term. This Fri is the last day before our 2 week break. Yahoo! Schoooooools out for...what season is it? Oh yeah, hot and sweaty. Going to Savaii on Sat for Cinco de Mayo since Samoa is so into their Mexican cultural...riiiiight. After the festivities will be heading off to circumnavigate the island with Sally and some others. Ok gotta run people need computers and I need deoderant. Hugs and taro!






